The heating unit is similar in some respects to the heating unit in the Cayenne. However, as this system provides all areas with air conditioning using one heating unit, the heating unit design is more complex and not comparable.
Heating Unit Air Intake
The fresh-air/recirculation flap and the ram-air flap each have a servo motor located directly beside the air intake opening of the heating unit. The particle filter is positioned at the point where the heating unit’s air intake opening connects with the air-mixing/distribution chamber (view in direction of air movement). To change the particle filter (for maintenance) a service opening is located in the housing of the heating unit (similar to the Cayenne). The opening can be reached by removing the knee guard on the passenger’s side.
Distinguishing between the 2- and 4-zone heating unit by the number of servo motors:
A total of 15 servo motors are integrated in the 2-zone system.
A total of 19 servo motors are integrated in the 4-zone system.
Heating Unit Air Outlet
Only one servo motor is available for extended ventilation. Both air flow flaps are activated using this drive link.
Heating Unit, Left Side
Additional cold air can be fed to the center vent through a bypass duct). The temperature sensor for the side air vent (one each on the right/left side) is not positioned directly on the heating unit. The sensors are located in an intermediate piece just behind the air vents of the heating unit. This intermediate piece (connector) is an integrated component of the underside of the switch panel and routes the air flow to the air ducts, which serve the side air vents (right/left switch panel).
Heating Unit, Right Side
The servo motor for the temperature mixing flap at the rear is located below position 4. The arrow points only to the connector for this drive link.
Rear Plumbing
Temperature Mixing Chamber (front and rear)
The temperature-mixing chamber is a symmetrical structure. This means that there are temperature mixing flaps for the left and right side at the front and rear (see section on the left side).
Behind the evaporator, the entire air flow is routed separately for the front and rear by the respective temperature mixing flap system (cold and hot flaps) into the temperature-mixing chamber behind. The cold and hot flaps are connected and actuated by a servo motor (temperature mixing flap). All flap positions are adjustable depending on the temperature required.
Example: Cold flap OPEN max = Hot flap CLOSED max
Depending on the setting (automatic or manual mode) the air flows from the various temperature-mixing chambers (four in total) are routed separately through the air flow flaps in the heating unit to the individual vent ducts. An air flow flap for the rear is located in the air distributor.
INFORMATION: To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool.
3.1.
Release fixing clips -3- .
3.2.
Guide a plastic wedge into the joint between the A-pillar trim and front side panel trim.
3.3.
Unclip A-pillar trim by turning the plastic wedge -A- .
3.4.
Remove A-pillar trim in an upward direction -B- .
Removing And Installing Upper Part Of B-pillar Trim Panel
Preliminary work
Remove cover for backrest.
Detach belt fitting at the seat.
Remove air vent in B-pillar.
Removing upper part of B-pillar trim panel
INFORMATION:
To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool.
To remove the upper part of the B-pillar trim, the cover panel on the belt adjustment system must be at the upper end position.
Set belt adjustment to upper end position.
Detach upper trim panel mounting.
1.1.
Remove cap -1- .
1.2.
Unscrew the fastening screw -2- .
Unclip the side trim panel.
Unclip trim panel in the middle.
Remove trim panel.
4.1.
Swivel out trim panel -A- and remove it by pulling it downwards -B-
4.2.
Feed the belt -3- through the opening in the cover panel.
Installing upper part of B-pillar trim panel
INFORMATION:
Check that all the fastening clips are positioned fully and correctly.
Check that all the fastening clips are not bent or broken.
Replace damaged or missing clips with new ones.
Move belt adjustment cover panel -1- into installation position.
1.1.
Push the belt adjustment cover panel -1- up.
1.2.
Clip in locking lug -2- .
Move the seat belt -3- to the top end position.
Install B-pillar trim panel.
Feed the belt through the opening in the cover panel.
Fit B-pillar trim panel at the top in the sheetmetal bracket.
Swivel in B-pillar trim panel.
Position centre fixing clips and clip in the trim panel.
Position outer fixing clips and clip in the trim panel.
Secure B-pillar trim panel at the top.
8.1.
Screw in fastening screw -5-
Tightening torque: 5.5 Nm (4 ftlb.).
8.2.
Clip in cover -6- .
Subsequent work
Secure belt fitting at the seat.
Install cover for backrest.
Install air vent in B-pillar.
Removing And Installing Lower Part Of B-pillar Trim Panel
Preliminary work
Remove upper part of B-pillar trim panel.
Remove air vent at B-pillar.
Remove front part of inner door sill trim.
Removing lower part of B-pillar trim panel
INFORMATION: To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool.
Detach mounting for armrest extension.
1.1.
Lever out cover -1- for armrest extension.
1.2.
Unscrew fastening screw -2- .
Remove armrest extension -3- .
Unscrew fastening screw -4- for ventilation duct.
Detach rear part of door sill trim at the front edge.
4.1.
Unclip inner locking lug -A- .
4.2.
Loosen the three front clips on the door sill trim -B- .
Detach lower part of B-pillar trim panel.
5.1.
Lift up the rear section of the door sill trim.
5.2.
Swivel lower part of B-pillar trim panel down -A- and unclip it -B- .
Installing lower part of B-pillar trim panel
INFORMATION:
Check that all the fastening clips are positioned fully and correctly.
Check that all the fastening clips are not bent or broken.
Check that all the fastening clips are not bent or broken.
Lift up the rear section of the door sill trim.
Clip in lower part of B-pillar trim panel.
Swivel B-pillar trim panel into place and clip it in.
Screw in fastening screw -1-
Tightening torque: 5.5 Nm (4 ftlb.) for ventilation duct.
Position the armrest extension -2- and align the door trim panel with the armrest contour.
Secure armrest extension.
6.1.
Screw in fastening screw -3-
Tightening torque: 5.5 Nm (4 ftlb.).
6.2.
Fit cap -4- .
Clip in rear section of the door sill trim.
Subsequent work
Install air vent at B-pillar.
Install front part of inner door sill trim.
Install upper part of B-pillar trim panel.
Removing And Installing C-pillar Trim (Trunk side Panels)
Preliminary work
Preliminary work – rear part of C-pillar trim
Remove sun blind.
Remove rear seat.
Preliminary work – front part of C-pillar trim
Remove rear part of C-pillar trim.
Remove rear part of door sill trim.
Removing rear part of C-pillar trim
INFORMATION: To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool.
Fold rear backrest forward.
Remove cover.
2.1.
Unclip cover -A- .
2.2.
Loosen the bolts -B- .
2.3.
Swivel out cover with bolts -C- and remove by pulling it upwards.
Remove bolts from the cover.
Lever off covers.
Unclip contact plate -A- and remove it -B- (if fitted).
Unscrew fastening screws.
Unclip trim panel.
7.1.
Unclip trim panel -A- .
7.2.
Unclip trim panel -B- .
7.3.
Unclip trim panel -C- .
Release plug connection for C-pillar loudspeaker -a- and pull it off -B- (if fitted).
Guide contact plate through the trim panel (if fitted).
Removing front part of C-pillar trim
INFORMATION: To reduce the unclipping forces and thereby the risk of damage during removal, the removal steps must be carried out at the accessible connection points using a suitable tool.
Unclip cover for backrest adjustment mechanism.
Move backrest into centre position.
Unscrew fastening screw -1- for backrest section.
Swivel backrest section forward and unclip it in an upward direction.
Disconnect plug connection.
Unclip electric wire harness at the C-pillar trim panel.
Loosen fastening clip -C- .
Release plug connections -a- and pull them off -B- .
Remove armrest extension.
9.1.
Lever out cover for armrest extension -2- .
9.2.
Unscrew fastening screw -3- .
9.3
Remove armrest extension -4- .
Mark installation position for belt fitting -5- ( -6- ).
Unscrew fastening screw -7- from belt fitting -5- .
Unscrew fastening screws -8- at the top.
Unscrew fastening screws -8- at the bottom.
Unclip front part of C-pillar trim.
14.1.
Loosen inner fixing clips -A- .
14.2.
Loosen outer fixing clips -B- .
14.3.
Loosen fixing clips at the bottom -C- .
Feed the belt through the opening in the trim panel.
Installing front part of C-pillar trim
INFORMATION:
Check that all the fastening clips are positioned fully and correctly.
Check that all the fastening clips are not bent or broken.
Replace damaged or missing clips with new ones.
Check that rubber supports -9- are fitted and check condition. Replace if necessary.
Place front part of C-pillar trim in installation position -A- .
2.1.
Make sure that the speed nut is positioned correctly.
Clip in front part of C-pillar trim.
3.1.
Clip in outer fixing clips -B- .
3.2.
Clip in inner fixing clips at the bottom -C- .
Screw in fastening screws -8-
Tightening torque: 1.7 Nm (1.5 ftlb.) at the top.
Screw in fastening screws -8-
Tightening torque: 1.7 Nm (1.5 ftlb.) at the bottom.
Position belt fitting -5- at the marking -6- and tighten to
Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ftlb.).
Secure plug connection.
7.1.
Clip in wire harness -A- .
7.2.
Connect plug connection until it engages securely -B- .
Clip in backrest side panel -A- and swivel it into position -B- .
Tighten fastening screw -1-
Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)±1 Nm (±0.5 ftlb.) on backrest side panel.
Clip in cover.
Position armrest extension -4- and align the door panel according to the armrest contour.
Secure armrest extension.
12.1.
Screw in fastening screw -3-
Tightening torque: 5.5 Nm (4 ftlb.).
12.2.
Press in cover -2- .
Installing rear part of C-pillar trim
INFORMATION:
Check that all the fastening clips are positioned fully and correctly.
Check that all the fastening clips are not bent or broken.
Replace damaged or missing clips with new ones.
Connect plug connection for loudspeaker until it engages securely.
Guide contact plate through the opening in the trim panel.
Clip contact plate into the cover.
Secure rear part of C-pillar trim.
4.1.
Place trim panel in installation position -A- and -B- .
Here’s the 10 Costliest Cars to Insure for 2015 as determined by Insure.com, with each model’s average annual premiums listed.
Nissan GT-R Nismo – $3,574
Mercedes-Benz SL65 AMG – $3,573
Dodge SRT Viper – $3,318
Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet – $3,216
Audi R8 5.2 Spyder Quattro – $3,206
Porsche Panamera Turbo Executive – $3,174
BMW 760Li – $3,147
BMW M6 Convertible – $3,115
Mercedes-Benz E63 AMG 4Matic Wagon – $3,042
Mercedes-Benz CLS63 AMG 4Matic – $2,972
* Insurance costs for a given make and model can likewise vary widely from state to state. For example, an otherwise average Nissan GT-R buyer living in Montana would pay an eye-popping $6,630 in Montana to insure it, while it would cost the same person living in Hawaii just $2,012 to cover the same car. Insure.com provides average rates for each state as well as each new vehicle for 2015.
**Insure.com’s survey was conducted by Quadrant Information Services, with rates based on more than 1,500 car models quoted from six large carriers (Allstate, Farmers, GEICO, Nationwide, Progressive and State Farm) in 10 ZIP codes per state. Some models, particularly exotic cars of the “if you have to ask you can’t afford it” nature were excluded. Estimates are based on an unmarried 40-year-old male driver with good credit, no accidents or moving violations who drives 12 miles to work each day, with policy limits of 100/300/50 ($100,000 for injury liability for one person, $300,000 for all injuries and $50,000 for property damage in an accident) and a $500 deductible on collision and comprehensive coverage.
Most of us know what these are and what they can do. We ALL hate them. Fines range from $25 – $150 depending on what state you are in. Some states have chosen to prohibit the use of red light cameras. These include Arkansas, Maine, Michigan, Mississippi, Montana, Nevada, New Hampshire and West Virginia. If you live there – consider yourself lucky – for now.
Now to beat them you have to understand how they work. Im still doing the research but here are some findings I have done so far.
Manufacturers of cameras:
ATS – http://www.atsol.com – flash / video / mobile
OK, since now we know what they are – how to we beat them? That is a good question. There are many ways to beat these cameras. There isnt even one that is 100% proof against all of them.
Why, different brands (above) use different technologies to get our plates. Some use flash, some double flash, some flash with exposure, some use video, some use video with infrared beams. The last two are very hard to beat without triggering another system that Police cars use which is Automatic License Plate Recognition (ALPR) scanners (little devices that cops carry on top of their cars to get you). ALPR, and most traffic enforcement cameras, usually use Infrared cameras to record this data. Those can be beat my blinding them with the IR lights. IR light is invisible to the human eye.
I will explain a little bit more in a few.
People have tried to camouflage their license plates with hairspray, plastic wrap, specialized spray formulas and license plate covers, and none have held up to MythBusters (TV show) testing. But you can try them on your own.
First you need to know if you want to protect yourself against a RED light camera or Speed Camera.
Red lights cameras – Those work on camera flash and on infrared videos. You have to know which ones are around your neighberhood to know how to beat them. Some cameras that have been installed for few years in the same spot use camera flash technology – which is easier to beat with Plate shields and other. Newer cameras use video and IR sensing at night and those are pretty hard to beat.
Speed cameras – they work on infrared (IR) technology. They use Infrared LEDs to read your plate during the date and night.
DEVICES AGAINST CAMERA FLASHES
Lets start with the simplest and cheapest and get to the more expensive units to fight the cameras.
Photo Blocker spray – It is the cheapest way to fight a camera and some say that it works. Most say and proved it that it doesnt work. I believe phantomplate.com sells it for $49. Stay away from that product. It is nothing more then repackaged $3 Clear Coat that you get from local Home Depot. For anyone that has ever tried using it, it is apparant by smell alone the second that you try to spray your plate.
Does it work? Yes and No… During the Day they will not do anything for you. If you travel at night and you do not have IR cameras the sprays can help over expose the flash from the cameras.
If you are still not sure about the effectiveness of photo radar sprays, at least save yourself some money and just buy a can of clear coat instead. The spray is based on the principle of making your plate shiny, so that when a picture of your plate is taken with flash, the shiny coat reflects the flash and makes your plate unreadable.
Myth Busters (TV SHOW on Discovery Channel), which is a great show that I like and trust on the Discovery Channel, proved that these spray and similar sprays were completely ineffective red light and speed cameras.
PLATE COVERS
There are many plate covers out there. Different covers work for different cameras. One main manufacturer makes these so you will see these products at many distributors. OnTrackCorp.com.
They have been tested and again some work and some dont. Here is a good resource to see how they did in their tests: http://radartest.com/Red-Light-Camera-Countermeasures-Test.asp. I dont know how these tests were performed against different angles so Im not sure if they were done properly.
I believe that the “SUPER PROTECTOR” plate cover works the best in most situations. Its thin, its clear and it works against most cameras (excluding IR cameras).
For IR cameras they offer product called “IR Invisi-Plate” which should work for the IR cameras but it doesnt work against the flash cameras.
There are other products made by OnTrack so check their website at http://www.ontrackcorp.com/ and find a distributor.
ProDB – this product has not been widely tested so there isnt many results or proof that it works
NOPHOTO – this product has been tested but it failed since it couldnt sync with the camera flash to blind it. Here is some good info on this product: http://www.rdforum.org/showthread.php?t=30590
CHINESE VERSION of NOPHOTO – this product worked a lot better than NOPHOTO but it takes a DIY guy to install it.
Here is a comparison of a NOPHOTO (one with a black frame around it) to the Chinese version:
Chinese version of the NOPHOTO you can find on ebay.com
IR CAMERA PROTECTION:
There are devices that emit an IR lights to blind the IR cameras.
Using IR light is superior to traditional reflective sprays and physical license plate photo -blocker covers for the following reasons: Sprays only work against flash based cameras and their effectiveness is questionable, they provide no protection against IR-only cameras or ALPR. Physical photoblocker plate covers, while usually highly effective, must physically cover the numbers, are easily identifiable and very much illegal in most areas.
This is how the frame will look to an IR sensitive camera. Effectively making the number plate unreadable and maintaining your privacy.
ONE problem with that. If a regular police officer has one of the Automatic License Plate Recognition (ALPR) scanners (plate scanners on top of police cars) – you will automatically get pulled over since he will not be able to check your plate which means automatic RED FLAG! Good luck explaining to the officer why his system can’t read your plate. If you have something to hide when your plate is scanned then get THAT fixed.
ALPR, and most traffic enforcement cameras, usually use Infrared cameras to record this data. So we have created a special low profile license plate frame that emits a high intensity IR light that is projected onto the plate and effectively blinds the device’s camera. This light is invisible to the human eye.
As you know, the front bumper is a debris catcher: leafs, rocks, cigarette butts, paper, whatever. That always gets me pissed of because its impossible to clean it up. That stuff doesnt just fall out – it just stays on the bottom of the radiator. Only solution to clean it is to get a yard blower and blow it out (that only works 60% of the time) or you have to remove the bumper (too much work).
I have been looking for a solution to that issue but nobody makes a front end grill. So I decided to make my own grill. and Here is how.
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If for some reason you dont feel like this is a project for you but you do need it – let me know and I will make it for you. Just use the contact form.
You can purchase a Plastic Version of this grille below:
Panamera Turbo
Panamera 4 / 4S
1. Go to your local home improvement store like (Home depot or Lowes) and get something called a “gutter guard”. Its a black metallic mesh that works great. You can get this mesh material from Home Depot (sheet of steel screen – Link Here). It comes in 3 feet long pieces so its a little bit too short for the opening in the bumper. So you will have a 1″ of the opening on each side. Im in the process of testing out a plastic one so it will be easier to install.
2. Try to remove the bumper and remove the grill black plastic panel from it. This step is not necessary but it will make your job easier. If you want, just lift the car, lay down on the ground and put a blue painter’s masking tape on top of the opening where you want to install the mesh grill.
3. Outline the lines with a pencil or a permanent maker on the tape. Peel the tape off and cut where you drew the lines. After its cut to size it will give you dimension of the opening.
4. Once you have the shape of the openings, take the shapes and trace it onto the black mesh and cut it out. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR METAL SHEERS ARE SHARP otherwise line where you cut it will come out like you see on the pics below (yes, my shears were not sharp as you see – big mistake).
Also, make sure that the edge of the mesh you cutting gets installed on top of the grill opening so that its invisible once you install it because it will be hidden under the plate .
Also, what I did is, I cut out the mesh a little big bigger so I can bend the edges a little bit so there wouldnt be any sharp edges.
5. All you got left now is fit it, cut it to your likings, bend the edges and zip tie from the back. Thats it.
Here are a few shots of the grills installed. Noticed that the grill I picked is a little too short for the openings and the is a 1″ gap on each end. You can avoid that problem with the first product I listed above that comes on a roll.
